Chefs behind S.F. Michelin star restaurant Marlena fighting over name
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When David Fisher was tapped to helm the kitchen at a new neighborhood restaurant in Bernal Heights, he already had a vision and a menu in mind, inspired by his family’s restaurant in New York State. He also knew what he would name the restaurant: Marlena, after his late mother.
Marlena opened in 2020 at the peak of the pandemic; Fisher’s wife and co-chef Serena Chow joined shortly thereafter, and together the team landed a Michelin star in 2021 and 2022 for the tight tasting menu of dishes like Hokkaido scallops in a Coachella corn sauce and pork collar with white Italian beans.
But after the chefs’ unexpected departure last week, stemming from differences with the restaurant’s owner, Stephan Roulland, the restaurant’s name is in dispute. Roulland’s company Bouillon, LLC owns the name, though Fisher alleges he developed the full concept and is entitled to ownership. The chefs will soon be opening a new restaurant, named 7 Adams, at the former home of Gardenias in S.F.’s Japantown area. Meanwhile, Marlena will resume service in August with its name in place.
“I rightfully feel like (the name Marlena) is mine,” Fisher said.
The dispute over the name began in December, said Fisher, when Roulland contacted the chefs about restructuring their contract. As part of the negotiation process Fisher tried to get the name in writing, but Roulland did not agree to it. Fisher alleges Roulland offered his word that he would try to give the name to Fisher.
“He just essentially cannot be trusted,” Fisher said. In a statement to The Chronicle, Roulland said he and the chefs were involved in conversations to allow Fisher and Chow to hold on to the name, but the couple refused to sign a contract at the last minute, leaving the LLC in possession of the name.
“Over the past three years, Bouillon has invested significant money, time, and energy to bolster the culinary vision and create a restaurant with significant value,” said Roulland. “As such, the name Marlena is a significant business asset.”
The chefs put in a notice of resignation on May 18, and decided to negotiate for the name. They claim Roulland wanted them to stay on board until Aug. 1, which they were willing to do if he put in writing that they could walk out with the name Marlena.
Serena Chow and David Fisher/Courtesy Tara Rudolph
After a long back-and-forth between lawyers negotiating a departure, on June 29, they heard from Roulland that the answer was no. The next day, Fisher alleged, Roulland proposed handing the name back in January 2025. Fisher and Chow made their departure public later that day.
“At that point, all bets were off. We just couldn’t do it anymore,” Fisher said.
The dispute over the name continues, but other episodes in the deteriorating relationship include the termination of Ryan Cole, a consultant who handled the day-to-day operations at the restaurant. Cole, who owns a restaurant group including businesses like Trestle and the Vault, is also working with the couple on 7 Adams. He said he wasn’t given any specific reasons for his termination. Roulland declined to comment on Cole’s departure.
Also to the dismay of chefs Fisher and Chow, a planned six-week closure, starting in April 2022, for renovations and a mandated seismic retrofit of the property, stretched out to five months. During this period, the chefs moved their operations to a temporary pop-up, taking a financial hit. The chefs claim the retrofit permit was filed late, resulting in delays. Roulland said the permits were filed on time, and that the retrofit work impacted the restaurant for just one-and-a-half months.
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The chefs also allege the terms in the proposed employment contract amounted to a pay cut. Roulland said the new contracts were designed to protect their profit sharing arrangement from depreciation following renovation work, along with an increase in salary.
While tensions grew between staff and the owner, both sides said Roulland always allowed the chefs to operate with full creative freedom. “We wish them great success in their next endeavor,” said Roulland.
Fisher and Chow still hope to open as Marlena in the future.
“We hope to build this in her honor,” Chow said.
Source: San Francisco Chronicle
